Sat 13 Dec 2014 Pune Thane
Up and pack (wet clothes and shoes have dried). Check out from Surya Villas at 0820. They store our bags. We had been told at check-in that we would pay 2250 R per night (presumably, plus tax) (= 4500 R). Instead, we are charged 2000 R per night, plus 296.8 R service tax (@7.42%) and 400 R luxury tax, for a total of 4696.8 R. Close enough. We decided to put the payment on the credit card. Now we may have enough rupees for the rest of the trip and avoid last-minute money changing.
Quick rickshaw ride to Ohel David. At 0830 on a Sat morning, the streets are clear. You can actually move. We can also read the inspirational signs posted on major streets, such as "Avoid the unmanageable. Manage the unavoidable."
We get to the synagogue early enough in the service to appreciate the open roadways. Carol deposits her sandals once more inside the entry. There is already a minyan of at least 10 men, seated on the left. The women are on the right. Surprise: this morning most congregants wear footwear. Go figure.
Mike received the first aliyah (they don't apparently necessarily give it to Kohanim, or maybe there are none in this congregation) as an honored guest. Mike was also offered the honor of leading musaf, which he turned down, since he had not the slightest idea how and with what melody they davened musaf.
After each honor, the honoree goes to every other man (and often crosses the sides and includes the women) and offers both hands, holding the tallis, to shake both hands of the other congregant. We saw this also at Tiferet Israel, but since the congregation was larger, you couldn't necessarily get to shake everyone's hands.
Carol is seated next to a Bene Israel woman named Hannah and shares her Hertz Chumash during the Torah reading. The Torah portion, Va-yeishev, contains Genesis 38, the story of Tamar and Yehuda, which produced the ancestral line of David. Some racy stuff here. Joseph Hertz, who was Chief Rabbi of United Hebrew Congregations of the British Empire from 1913 until his death in 1946, was ever the prim redactor. He has as commentary to a term in Gen. 38:15 "harlot": "a woman dedicated to impure heathen worship. This repulsive custom . . . survives in many forms of Hindu worship." Carol turned to her seatmate, who rolled her eyes and made a wry face.
Later, Hannah comments on Jewish worship that excludes women from leading a service or reading Torah. She also thinks that the matriarchs deserve the same recognition as the patriarchs. You go, girl!
The service was over about 1045, and it was time for a kiddush, to which we were invited. There was a d'var torah and a reading of commentary by selected women. Servers bring some bread, some wine, Aloo Tikka (potato balls), milk tea and some fruit. Very nice.
It was now 1200. We could now visit the interesting neighborhood near Ohel David. We walked a couple of blocks to the nearby Parsi temple at Sir J.J. Parsi Agiyari Compound. Inside they were having a "Grand Exhibition Cum Sale". Quite a mix of items: Western and various Indian styles of clothing, accessories, homemade food items, Iranian textiles. Hanging next to each other was wall art with Ahura Mazda, the Last Supper, and Hindu gods. One vendor was selling blown-glass versions of the chili-lemon good luck charms. Carol bought 6 big ones and 4 smaller ones - the entire inventory.
We wandered a little farther into the commercial district, into a nice bakery. Parsis are famous for their Anglo-British baked goods, but we weren't really hungry. It was time to get back to the hotel. Some much to see and do in Pune! Once again, we have missed the opportunity to visit local museums, historic homes, and palaces. Do any of the Osho devotees ever try to venture beyond Koregaon Park?
Back at Surya Villas, we picked up our bags. Farewell maroon robes, Yogi Tree, and German Bakery. For 120 R we got a rickshaw all the way over to Swargate Bus Stand. Here we were to pick up our 3 PM Volvo bus to Thane. It was now 1440. Buses came, loaded, and went. None were our bus. 1500 came and went. Finally, at 1520 our bus came, loaded, and left. We were in seats right near the front.
The road from Pune to Mumbai is to expressway standards, mostly. However, it takes about 30 minutes to get through the western part of Pune to the entrance to our road. Once we were on the road, we still hadn't left the outskirts of Pune. Here and there were scattered 30 story apartment buildings, with 1, 2, 3, and 4 bedroom apartments for sale. About 30 minutes out on the road, we hit a traffic jam. It turns out this was a major loading point for all of the long distance buses. Our bus took on some passengers. Others were loading from scratch here. Can't imagine this kind of arrangement on an American interstate highway - but this is India.
Finally, it was reasonably clear sailing. We were on a divided 6 lane road with limited access. We were coming out of the hills down to the coastal valley. The sun set and pretty soon we were back in the city - this is the outskirts of Mumbai. The Mumbai metropolitan area exceeds 20 million people, and seems to extend outward 120 km from the southern tip of the Mumbai peninsula. As we went through these extended cities, people were getting off here and there. 1800 came, then 1830, then 1900. Everytime we thought we were finally in Thane, we would leave whatever city we were in, and continue on the road for some more.
Finally, about 1730, we came to a halt. This was the Thane bus terminal. The rickshaws quoted us a price of 200 R, which was reduced to 100 R, and we took it. Turns out that the fair price was probably closer to 50.
Anyway, we drove through a ramshackle neighborhood to our Booking.com choice, Hotel Vinyasa, a brightly lit-up hotel on a street which could have been anywhere inside Thane. Outside there is an elaborate balloon arch under which well-dressed women with small children dressed to the nines enter. Carol is excited - are we finally going to see a "kitty party", an event advertised at all the best hotels? No, this is probably just a regular KID party of some sort.
A "kitty party" turns out to be a women's event, usually held at a specified time each month by a specific group of women. It gives participants a chance to dress up and have a carefree good time, whatever that means for attendees. Every member of the group has to host the party at least once. Every member also has to contribute a set sum of money each month. "Kitty" refers to the amount of money collected at the party. The kitty is handed over to one member of the group every month. This next hosting member organizes food and other logistics. No kitty cats. No kiddies, either.
Our spacious room on the first floor (one up from the lobby) faces the street. It has a nice TV, an electric kettle, abundant choices for lighting, and a reasonably comfortable bed. Our bathroom has an enclosed shower (the first one of the trip that wasn't going to get the toilet and the bathroom floor wet). Maybe we really had booked a 3+ star hotel, instead of our usual 2 - 3 stars.
After we settled in we went walking down the street. At the end of the street, we found a small restaurant and went it. Chinese Indian food. Of course, in most of India, there are no Chinese cooking the Chinese Indian food. Anyway we ordered Szechuan soup, Hakka noodles, and a chicken dish, and ate. Not real Chinese, but tasty anyway.
Back to the hotel to sleep.
Up and pack (wet clothes and shoes have dried). Check out from Surya Villas at 0820. They store our bags. We had been told at check-in that we would pay 2250 R per night (presumably, plus tax) (= 4500 R). Instead, we are charged 2000 R per night, plus 296.8 R service tax (@7.42%) and 400 R luxury tax, for a total of 4696.8 R. Close enough. We decided to put the payment on the credit card. Now we may have enough rupees for the rest of the trip and avoid last-minute money changing.
Quick rickshaw ride to Ohel David. At 0830 on a Sat morning, the streets are clear. You can actually move. We can also read the inspirational signs posted on major streets, such as "Avoid the unmanageable. Manage the unavoidable."
We get to the synagogue early enough in the service to appreciate the open roadways. Carol deposits her sandals once more inside the entry. There is already a minyan of at least 10 men, seated on the left. The women are on the right. Surprise: this morning most congregants wear footwear. Go figure.
Mike received the first aliyah (they don't apparently necessarily give it to Kohanim, or maybe there are none in this congregation) as an honored guest. Mike was also offered the honor of leading musaf, which he turned down, since he had not the slightest idea how and with what melody they davened musaf.
After each honor, the honoree goes to every other man (and often crosses the sides and includes the women) and offers both hands, holding the tallis, to shake both hands of the other congregant. We saw this also at Tiferet Israel, but since the congregation was larger, you couldn't necessarily get to shake everyone's hands.
Carol is seated next to a Bene Israel woman named Hannah and shares her Hertz Chumash during the Torah reading. The Torah portion, Va-yeishev, contains Genesis 38, the story of Tamar and Yehuda, which produced the ancestral line of David. Some racy stuff here. Joseph Hertz, who was Chief Rabbi of United Hebrew Congregations of the British Empire from 1913 until his death in 1946, was ever the prim redactor. He has as commentary to a term in Gen. 38:15 "harlot": "a woman dedicated to impure heathen worship. This repulsive custom . . . survives in many forms of Hindu worship." Carol turned to her seatmate, who rolled her eyes and made a wry face.
Later, Hannah comments on Jewish worship that excludes women from leading a service or reading Torah. She also thinks that the matriarchs deserve the same recognition as the patriarchs. You go, girl!
The service was over about 1045, and it was time for a kiddush, to which we were invited. There was a d'var torah and a reading of commentary by selected women. Servers bring some bread, some wine, Aloo Tikka (potato balls), milk tea and some fruit. Very nice.
It was now 1200. We could now visit the interesting neighborhood near Ohel David. We walked a couple of blocks to the nearby Parsi temple at Sir J.J. Parsi Agiyari Compound. Inside they were having a "Grand Exhibition Cum Sale". Quite a mix of items: Western and various Indian styles of clothing, accessories, homemade food items, Iranian textiles. Hanging next to each other was wall art with Ahura Mazda, the Last Supper, and Hindu gods. One vendor was selling blown-glass versions of the chili-lemon good luck charms. Carol bought 6 big ones and 4 smaller ones - the entire inventory.
We wandered a little farther into the commercial district, into a nice bakery. Parsis are famous for their Anglo-British baked goods, but we weren't really hungry. It was time to get back to the hotel. Some much to see and do in Pune! Once again, we have missed the opportunity to visit local museums, historic homes, and palaces. Do any of the Osho devotees ever try to venture beyond Koregaon Park?
Back at Surya Villas, we picked up our bags. Farewell maroon robes, Yogi Tree, and German Bakery. For 120 R we got a rickshaw all the way over to Swargate Bus Stand. Here we were to pick up our 3 PM Volvo bus to Thane. It was now 1440. Buses came, loaded, and went. None were our bus. 1500 came and went. Finally, at 1520 our bus came, loaded, and left. We were in seats right near the front.
The road from Pune to Mumbai is to expressway standards, mostly. However, it takes about 30 minutes to get through the western part of Pune to the entrance to our road. Once we were on the road, we still hadn't left the outskirts of Pune. Here and there were scattered 30 story apartment buildings, with 1, 2, 3, and 4 bedroom apartments for sale. About 30 minutes out on the road, we hit a traffic jam. It turns out this was a major loading point for all of the long distance buses. Our bus took on some passengers. Others were loading from scratch here. Can't imagine this kind of arrangement on an American interstate highway - but this is India.
Finally, it was reasonably clear sailing. We were on a divided 6 lane road with limited access. We were coming out of the hills down to the coastal valley. The sun set and pretty soon we were back in the city - this is the outskirts of Mumbai. The Mumbai metropolitan area exceeds 20 million people, and seems to extend outward 120 km from the southern tip of the Mumbai peninsula. As we went through these extended cities, people were getting off here and there. 1800 came, then 1830, then 1900. Everytime we thought we were finally in Thane, we would leave whatever city we were in, and continue on the road for some more.
Finally, about 1730, we came to a halt. This was the Thane bus terminal. The rickshaws quoted us a price of 200 R, which was reduced to 100 R, and we took it. Turns out that the fair price was probably closer to 50.
Anyway, we drove through a ramshackle neighborhood to our Booking.com choice, Hotel Vinyasa, a brightly lit-up hotel on a street which could have been anywhere inside Thane. Outside there is an elaborate balloon arch under which well-dressed women with small children dressed to the nines enter. Carol is excited - are we finally going to see a "kitty party", an event advertised at all the best hotels? No, this is probably just a regular KID party of some sort.
A "kitty party" turns out to be a women's event, usually held at a specified time each month by a specific group of women. It gives participants a chance to dress up and have a carefree good time, whatever that means for attendees. Every member of the group has to host the party at least once. Every member also has to contribute a set sum of money each month. "Kitty" refers to the amount of money collected at the party. The kitty is handed over to one member of the group every month. This next hosting member organizes food and other logistics. No kitty cats. No kiddies, either.
Our spacious room on the first floor (one up from the lobby) faces the street. It has a nice TV, an electric kettle, abundant choices for lighting, and a reasonably comfortable bed. Our bathroom has an enclosed shower (the first one of the trip that wasn't going to get the toilet and the bathroom floor wet). Maybe we really had booked a 3+ star hotel, instead of our usual 2 - 3 stars.
After we settled in we went walking down the street. At the end of the street, we found a small restaurant and went it. Chinese Indian food. Of course, in most of India, there are no Chinese cooking the Chinese Indian food. Anyway we ordered Szechuan soup, Hakka noodles, and a chicken dish, and ate. Not real Chinese, but tasty anyway.
Back to the hotel to sleep.
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